Saturday, July 28, 2018


自驾游走南马-柔佛州西部76夜行游记 (第三天)West Part of Johor Family Trip 7 days 6 nights (Day 3)

第三天行程:柔佛龟咯岛国家公园 & 丹戎比亚国家公园

龟咯岛是个没有居住设施的岛屿,所以要去那儿是必须乘搭船的。上船的地点是在Kukup International Ferry Terminal旅客上船的码头看起来并不很正式,没有购票的柜台,但是会有一些华裔叔叔和你收取乘船费。我们一家缴了RM10,因为小孩是免费,大人RM5一人。这个费用除了带我们去龟咯岛,过后还会回来载我们去参观海上养鱼场,而且时间不设限,我们要在龟咯岛或养鱼场逗留多久都可以,不过是指当天不是过夜哦。

Pulau Kukup is an island with no living facilities, so it is necessary to take boat to go there. The place to board the boat is at Kukup International Ferry Terminal. The pier where tourists to board the boat looked very informal. There was no counter to purchase the boat riding tickets as well. However, there will be some Chinese uncles collected the boat riding fee from you if you wished to take a ride. We had paid RM10 for the boat riding where RM5 for each adult while children were free of charge. The fee was not only included a ride to Pulau Kukup but also to a floating fish farm. Tourists could stay at Pulau Kukup or fish farm as long as they wanted but not for overnight.

Taman Negara Johor Pulau Kukup

从码头去龟咯岛只需5分钟而已。当天天气很好,海上艳阳高照,但是迎面吹来的海风和海上无数的养鱼场海景,看了觉的身心愉快。到达龟咯岛上岸前,华裔叔叔给予来到龟咯岛旅客忠告,要我们千千万万要尊重这儿的大自然和动物。购买了龟咯岛的门票后,如厕和收好有颜色的饮料在背包,因为不要引来岛上居住的食蟹猴的注意后,我们才开始慢步于红树林岛上大约600米长的栈道。

It took about 5 minutes to Pulau Kukup from the pier. The weather was very nice and the sun was shining brightly. We enjoyed the sea breeze blowing on the face and saw countless of floating fish farm on the sea. Before dropped us to the pier of Pulau Kukup, the Chinese uncle advised us must show our respect to the natural and animals of this island. After purchased the entrance tickets for Pulau Kukup, went toilet urinate and safe kept all those colourful drinks into our bags to avoid attract the attention from the macaque monkeys that inhabit in this island, then only we started to walk along the 600 meters long walkway in this mangrove island.

龟咯岛红树林保存的蛮好,而且处处有惊喜
The mangrove forest of Pulau Kukup was very well maintained.

龟咯岛是马来西亚,也是全世界最大的红树林岛。虽然艳阳高照,但是走在岛上的栈道,在红树林庇荫下,一点都不觉得晒,而且还可以听到各种动物们的啼叫声。由于是退潮的时间,我们可以看到好些弹涂鱼棲息于红树林的沼泽地上,和飘落在沼泽地上的红树林花和种子。当然,也免不了会看到红树林底下伴随潮水来的垃圾,如保丽龙,塑胶瓶子。

Pulau Kukup is the biggest mangrove forest in Malaysia and the world. Though the weather is scorching hot, but with the shade of the mangrove trees, we did not feel the heat too much. We could hear various sound from the animals here when walked along the walkway. As it was low tide, we could see some mudskippers and mangrove trees flowers, seeds in the mangrove swamp. We saw rubbishes, such as Styrofoam and plastic bottle trapped on the mangrove tree root which were swept to here during high tide.

红树林花 Mangrove tree flowers

红树林种子 Mangrove trees seeds

栈道上竖立了一些指示牌,注明红树林的种类,资料之外,也提醒旅客不可打扰环境和居住在这儿的动物,要细声细语,轻手轻脚,慢步行走。

The signboards that set up along the walk way, not only indicated the types of mangrove trees but also reminded the visitors not to disturb the environment and the animals here by whispering instead of shout or talk loudly and to walk slowly at the walkway.

栈道上竖立的指示牌
The signboards that set up along the walk way.

栈道尽头有一座6层楼高的瞭望台,以让人俯视龟咯岛的红树林和大海交织出的景色。可是因为在维修当中,所以我们并没有上到这个瞭望台。

There was an observatory tower near the end of the walkway. However, the observatory tower was under maintenance, so we couldn’t have a bird view scenery from the top of this tower. 

之后,我们又搭回之前的那艘船去参观其中一个海上养鱼场。由于附近龟咯岛的红树林有利于保护养鱼场不受大风浪的袭击,所以这儿有好些海上养鱼场。这些养鱼场的路段都是由水桶支撑着的,所以不适合大批旅客参观。一踏入养鱼场就看到一只黑狗被栓在一根柱子上,孩子们见了都好害怕。养鱼场有个年轻的小伙子见有旅客,就从其中一个鱼排捞出一只河豚鱼给我们看。可是,这只河豚鱼很可怜,主人为了取悦游客,已经把这支河豚鱼的气囊按伤了,所以它并无法像正常的河豚鱼遇到危险吸气膨胀了。把河豚鱼放回鱼排后,小伙子又捞了一只鲎鱼(又称马蹄蟹)让我们看,或动手抓。他解说鲎鱼的身体部分只有它的蛋会被人类煮食。后来,在等船只回来之前,我们自己慢走在鱼排的路段,孩子们有幸看到了养在鱼排里的海胆和花蟹。

After that, we took the boat we rode just now to one of the nearby floating fish farms. Mangrove trees protect the shoreline and floating fish farm from being eroded by strong waves. The fish farms that floating on the sea all supported by the big blue bucket only, so the fish farm was not suitable for large number of visitors. My kids were so scare to see a black dog tied to a pole near the entrance. The young man who took care of this fish farm scooped out a puffer fish from the farm to let us see. In order to please the tourists, this puffer fish became a tool for the fish farm here to show the tourist by finger press to its unique natural defence mechanism where it fills its extremely elastic stomach with air when it was out from the water until a spherical shape. However, this act already caused the damage and injury to the puffer fish stomach, it was no longer can fill the air or water like a healthy puffer fish. After he put the puffer fish to the water, he continued to scoop out a horseshoe crab for us to touch or took photo. He explained only the eggs from the horseshoe crab will be eaten only. While waiting for the boat, we took a closer look at the various species of sea creatures being cultivated in the farm. The kids were so lucky to see the sea urchin and the blue crab.

鲎鱼 Horseshoe crab

上岸后,我们直接在码头的出口处的Restaurant Kukup Laut 医饱肚子。带着一个大孩童和两个幼儿来到海鲜楼,相信我们是没有奢侈的时间可以让我们享受慢活的美食-螃蟹,所以我们只好叫了河婆虾和麦片虾配上其它菜肴来发泄我们为人父母的心头恨。吃饱后,有感于孩子们在烈日下开始失去耐性了,所于我们也没有走进附近的咸水港渔村看看。只从当地人的口中知道,这是他们居住的地方,而且是个以华人居多的渔村。

We had our lunch at Restaurant Kukup Laut that near the exit of the pier. With a big kid and 2 toddlers to seafood restaurant, I thought we didn’t have extravagant time for us to slowly enjoy the crabs here. Hence, we just ordered the mantis prawn and nestum prawn to vent our hatred. After finished our lunch, we cancelled our plan to visit the Kampung Nelayan Air Masin fishing village as we found our kids started to lost their patience under the scorching hot sun. Heard from the local people here, Kampung Nelayan Air Masin fishing village was a quaint village that built on the stilts above muddy mangrove shoreline. The settlement is home to the people whom mostly engaged in fishing and catering for tourists. The population here are mostly Chinese.


在这儿吃午餐
Lunch at Restaurant Kukup Laut

河婆虾 Mantis prawn

麦片虾 Nestum prawn 

接下来,我们就驱车到丹戎比亚国家公园。丹戎比亚除了是马来西亚的一个天涯海角,也是亚洲大陆最南端的一角。走在建在海上的栈道时,CC还说这儿的风景好美,和之前我们去年去台湾的高美湿地有点相似。不同之处是高美湿地的海风很大,附近还建有风力发电机。而从丹戎比亚其中一个观景台望去,则可以看到马六甲海峡和柔佛海峡上往返的油船和货船,以及看到印尼的Pulau Kerimon,和一大片的红树林。刚好遇上退潮时间,我们有幸看到好多好大只的弹涂鱼和招潮蟹。

Next, we drove to Tanjung Pia Johor National Park. Tanjung Pia is not only a cape of Peninsular Malaysia, but also the southernmost tip point of mainland Asia. When we walked along the wooden walkway, CC commented the scenery here was breath-taking, and a bit similar to Taiwan GaoMei Wetland that we visited last year. The difference between the two wetlands are the sea breeze of GaoMei  Wetland was very strong and wind turbines were built nearby. While viewed from one of Tanjung Pia observatory deck, we could see the oil tankers and cargo ships in the Strait of Malacca and the Strait of Johor; Indonesia Pulau Kerimon which was just opposite of the observatory deck and large piece of mangrove forest along the shoreline. So happen the tide was on the ebb, we were so lucky to see a lot of big mudskippers and fiddler crab on the muddy swamp area.

好美的风景,和之前我们去年去台湾的高美湿地有点相似
The scenery was so beautiful, a little bit similar to Taiwan GaoMei Wetland that we visited last year.

观景台对面的岛是印尼的Pulau Kerimon
Opposite the observatory deck is Pulau Kerimon of Indonesia

另一个设有一个巨大地球仪观景台的栈道路口并不得其入,因为是在维修当中。站在地球仪这个地标上即站在亚洲大陆最南端的一角,所以我们此趟并没有站亚洲大陆的天涯海角之最。一眼望去地球仪那个方向,可以看到忙碌的填海工程正如火如荼的进行中,看了不知道为什么,觉得心有点痛。

The other observatory deck with a huge globe was under maintenance, so we were not able to enter this important landmark of Tanjung Pia. That meant we did not stand on the southernmost tip point of mainland Asia for this visit, but just stood at the other observatory deck and viewed on the cape. From far, we could see the reclamation construction was in full swing. Don’t know why, we just felt heart pain when saw on the construction.

海风凉凉地吹,鼻子不时闻到空气中淡淡,咸咸的海水味,享受着四周宁静的气氛,我们一家也干脆坐在观景台的长凳上欣赏这儿醉人的美景。喜爱大自然的CC,忍不住地躺在长凳上说好想在这样的景色下就这样睡个午觉,享受这儿的美好。可惜,孩子们一看到爸爸躺在长凳上,就立刻把他当成人肉枕头,去抱他,和他玩乐。

The sea breeze was blowing gently, smelling the air with light salty sea taste, we simply sat down on the bench at the observatory deck, enjoying the tranquil atmosphere and beautiful scenery here. CC who is a natural lover, couldn’t help but just lie on the bench and said that he wanted to take a nap with the scenery and enjoyed its beauty. Unfortunately, as soon as the kids saw their dad lying on the bench, they immediately regarded him as a human meat pillow, hugged him, and played with him.

这里实在太舒服了,大家都忍不住躺下享受大自然的美好
It was so comfortable here, we couldn't help but just lie down on the bench to enjoy the beauty of nature.

结束了丹戎比亚国家公园之旅后,路经北干那那(Pekan Nanas),原本打算买些当地出名的黄莉饼,可惜我们当时只想到回去酒店让孩子们休息,已经路过售卖黄莉饼的旺梨屋(Nictar Pineapple House),所以就不打算特地U转回去,只是在路边的水果店买几片切好了的黄莉吃。不过,老板说他的黄莉不是本地的,是来自菲力宾的。算了,我们也只是想吃水果,也没固执到一定要吃到北干那那的黄莉才罢休的。后来,还买了好几种水果,因为孩子们也要吃。哈哈。

On the way back to hotel, initially we planned to buy some famous Pineapple Tarts from Nictar Pipeapple House when passed by Pekan Nanas, but we forgot and missed the junction already. In order to back hotel early and let the kids rest after day long, so we did not make U turn to Nictar Pineapple House. We just stopped at a fruit stall on the roadside and bought some nicely cut pineapples and eat. Too bad, the boss told his pineapples were not from local, but were from Philippines. Anyhow we yet stubborn enough till must eat the pineapples from Pekan Nanas, as we wanted to eat fruits only and kids needed the nutrition too… haha.

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自驾游走南马 - 柔佛州西部 7 天 6 夜行游记 (第三天) West Part of Johor Family Trip 7 days 6 nights (Day 3) 第三天 的 行程:柔佛龟咯岛国家公园 & 丹戎比亚国家公园 Day 3 rout...